Removing the old ones can be done by hand, or if they are stubborn use a flat screwdriver to gently push sideways and pry the old sidemarker out. Also, for re-installation always install the light into the lens housing, then connect it to the wiring harness and snap into place. Otherwise any twisting of the housing may cause the bulb to work loose.
In other news, this morning when leaving to wash the car my clutch pedal would not fully spring back up and I had to pull it back with my foot. Since then the clutch only engages at the very end of it’s throw and it feels like I don’t have much distance to work with when shifting. This only happened once but I suspect my master cylinder is failing. It’s a $70-170.00 part (depending on the retailer and brand name) but there’s some know-how required to replace the part and bleed the system of air.
This, combined with engine and drivability issues detract slightly from my enjoyment of the car but I’m doing my best to keep it on the road but I don’t think I’ll be driving it until I get this sorted out sometime this week or next weekend. I may have to take it to a shop if I don’t have time to deal with it.
Front Turn Signal Bulb (Clear): Sylvania 7528
Front Turn Signal Bulb (Amber): Sylvania 1157A
Sidemarker Signal Bulb (Amber): Sylvania 2827
The amber front turn signal bulb is lower voltage, but is keyed correctly for the BMW e30 turn signal socket. This may cause the light to burn out more often or run hotter but it works.
The front sidemarkers on my car were crappy: one was always falling out a little, the other was collecting water. Replaced both, drilled a hole in the bottom of each so any moisture can drain.
This post aggregates a few recent fixes and updates into a single post. Went to the junkers today, found some good stuff including an uncracked dash which would probably fetch $200 if I was willing to ship it to a buyer. I left the dash behind but may go back tomorrow I’m not sure.
I’m glad the broken and peeling trim is gone but this didn’t make the car look any better. I am going to consider painting the trim, along with my bumper trim, at some point in the future. For now it’s fine even if one peice of trim is not as shiny as the rest (because I had to assemble the complete set of trim from 3 different cars).
By the way, these bits are $1.00 from most suppliers but BMW of South Atlanta sells them for the list prince, usually less than $0.50 each.
Clip: BMW Part Number 51131876128 (x1 Per Door)
Grommet: BMW Part Number 51121867907 (x1 Per Door)
Cap Nut: BMW Part Number 41335480120 (x1 Per Door) ! This Part Doesn’t Fit !
Clamp: BMW Part Number 51131829904 (Sedan x2 Per Front Door, x1 Per Rear Door)
e30 325i > Fusebox Diagram (link)Part Numbers:
Installed LED trunk, license plate and interior lights. In the process discovered that I need to solder a resistor onto the trunk LEDs otherwise they cause a false positive on the check panel and that the switch in my glove box is broken. Always something to fix… more photos to come when I set up a tripod for proper night-time shots.
Ordered the eBay LEDs which even fit inside the bulb housing better due to the shape of the resistor. They don’t generate an error unless I restart the car the without also turning off the lights (i.e. stall it), in which case the trigger the check panel light.
Picked up and installed some used sidemarker sockets and new bulbs (part number 63217160797). All but one of the car’s sidemarkers has been disconnected and burned out since I got the car. Some day I’d like to put clear lenses (read: make) in my markers and front turn signals but that will have to wait.
On that note, here’s a few of my non-mechanics rules to buying a used e30:
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