All-aluminum radiators are a popular choice for race applications and cars with modified engines. My daily driver with stock m20 motor fits neither category but I’ve been diagnosing the common jumpy temp gauge and wanted to make sure my radiator is flowing freely and providing maximum cooling. Also, the super clean appearance of aluminum radiators appeals to my sense of aesthetics so I basically convinced myself to do this upgrade.

My criteria for the replacement radiator was improved cooling and OEM fitment. I set on the Mishimoto e30 / e36 radiator after recommendations from friends and finding only positive reviews in online BMW forums. Mishimoto offers a lifetime warranty which is comforting.

e30 Mishimoto radiator in box

However, my decision shouldn’t be taken as endorsement and I haven’t run this radiator long enough to provide a real product review. After I installed this my close friend and local e30 expert Eric Berger told me that he knows several people who have had these radiators fail. In some cases the failure resulted in motor damage: it’s “buyer beware” as always. For the record Eric recommends Behr.

Because of Eric’s emphatic warning I’m going to monitor this radiator very closely especially as it approaches the first year of service. I did some further internet searches and found few reports of failures with the Mishimoto products. Mostly I found complaints about fitment. The few cases I found of failure were related to running straight water (no coolant) for long periods of time and in some cases not even using distilled water. Since coolant lubricates the moving parts of the cooling system and iron in water reacts with aluminum I blame careless owners for those failures I read about. I’m not sure what the issues were with the other local guys who had failures.


Build Quality and Fitment

I found the quality of the Mishimoto radiator to be good and I would rate it a 9/10. It loses points for two reasons. Firstly, some of the fins were bent and a couple near the top were sheared off out of the box. Radiators are delicate but I’d expect it to be perfect on arrival. There’s a tool that can fix bent fins so I guess I’ll buy one.

Secondly I found fitment to be imperfect. One of the support posts was angled slightly outward. From post edge to post edge the radiator should be 26″ across but because of this defect my Mishimoto radiator was 26.15″ across. The solution was to cut down one of the rubber radiator mounts so that it would still seat to the radiator support. I don’t like this solution as it looks sloppy and failure due to a weakened mount is a concern.

Not necessarily a show stopper but there’s no fan shroud for a mechanical m20 fan that fits on the Mishimoto. I mean, you can throw one on but there’s no where to zip tie or clip it onto the rad. I’m still researching that.

mishimoto e30 radiator mounts wrong fitment

Above: This post for the radiator mounts is angled incorrectly which caused improper fitment.

mishimoto e30 radiator fitment adjusting mounts with knife

Above: Cutting the passenger side rubber radiator mount for fitment.

Installation Notes

  • Installation was easy. It took 30 minutes to remove the hood and old radiator and another 45 minutes to install and reconnect the new radiator including the time it took to solve the problem with the radiator mounts. From start to finish including bleeding it took me 3 hours. I ran into no problems because my hoses are all fresh and flexible. Older hoses may cause more problems.
  • Don’t forget to buy high temp teflon tape for your fan switch. The radiator ships with an aluminum delete plug for the switch port.
  • The Mishimoto drains directly from the bottom of the rad. Draining will splash coolant off the radiator support and make a big mess. Some kind of petcock with a 12mm x 1.5 would help but there’s not much room to fit it.

Mishimoto radiator installed in my late model 1989 BMW 325i e30
Mishimoto radiator installed in my late model 1989 BMW 325i e30

Above: Mishimoto radiator installed in my 1989 BMW e30.

October 5, 2014 mechanical, repairs

On Saturday I borrowed an engine hoist from local e30 maven Eric Berger, put it in a rental truck and drove up to Walnut Creek to pull a donor M20 for my car. Though Bernz (owner of the donor motor) and her neighbor Dillan are pretty experienced with motor removal it took 5 hours, lots of spilled engine fluids and a few mistakes to get it out of the car.

The donor motor has 75,382 miles on it and I’m looking forward to putting another 150,000 miles on it myself. The motor will get a complete inspection, all the wear and tear parts will be replaced (except the head gasket) and then it will be installed in my car. My car will probably be off the road for 2 weeks to facilitate the swap and maintenance.


AFM and airbox removed.


Finally removing the engine.


Engine almost removed.


Dillan removing automatic transmission.


Strapped in for the trip back to home.

M20 Motor Removal Checklist

  • 2x Heater inlet/outlet hoses at the firewall. Flat head screwdriver for the clamps.
  • 2x fuel lines, the feed and return, 1 at either end of the fuel rail. Flat head screwdriver for the clamps.
  • 2x engine mounts, 1 each side. 16mm / 17mm bolt.
  • Engine ground to oil pan. 13mm bolt.
  • Radiator. 2x 10mm bolts holding the top support bracket.
  • Radiator hoses to radiator. Just more flat headed clamps.
  • Brake booster hoses. Flat headed screws.
  • Exhaust down pipes. 17mm 16mm bolts. You can drop and remove the exhaust if you like, but you have got room in some cases.
  • Intake boot, air box. More flat head screws, 10mm bolts for the air box.
  • Driveshaft, 3x 17mm bolts with 17mm nuts.
  • Shifter linkage. 13mm bolts various sizes in places.
  • Wiring loom, just unplug from the ECU and toss it over the engine, unbolt the harness ground to chassis, usually somewhere by the strut tower.
  • Power cable to the Starter motor. Just disconnect from the back of the starter motor and leave it in the car.
  • Remove gearbox X-member. 13mm bolts.

M20 Motor Removal Walkthrough

  1. Let the car run in the park position if you have an automatic or let it run in the N position if you have 5 speed while you pull fuse 11 to empty all fuel from the system. Make sure you have your E brake on if you have a 5 speed. When the car shuts off turn your key to the off position.
  2. Go to your trunk and unhook your battery. You will need a 13mm wrench. Unhook the (-) side of the battery first then continue to the (+) side.
  3. Once they are unhooked pull them off and push them to the side. This is what you should have.
  4. Then go to your glove box to unhook your ECU.
  5. Open it up and here is the ECU plug. You will want to pull this silver clip back and unhook the ECU.
  6. Now go out to the engine bay and unhook all of the power wires from the distribution block on the firewall. You will need a 10mm wrench.
  7. Then unhook the ground wire from the strut tower. Also a 10mm.
  8. Now pull the plug for the ECU through the firewall.
  9. Next you can unhook the coil. pull the plug wire and boot off the top and you will see two wires. You will need a 8mm socket and a 10mm socket.
  10. Now go to the driver side of the car and unhook the MAF.
  11. Then take a flat head screw driver and loosen the clamp that holds the boot onto the MAF and take it out. You will need a 10mm wrench to loosen the two bolts on the side of the air box.
  12. Now its time to unhook the rad. You will need a bucket to catch your coolant. We have a drian in our floor that goes to a holding tank so we didnt need one.
  13. First take the hose off the bottom of the rad on the driver side. you will need a flat head screwdriver.
  14. Then unhook the hose on the passenger side.
  15. While your over there unhook the coolant sensor on the side of the rad.
  16. Now unhook the top hose.
  17. Now its time to take the radiator bracket off. You will need a 10mm wrench.
  18. Now pull your radiator out and put it to the side so you wont poke any holes in it.
  19. Now go back over to the driver side and unhook your throttle cable. You will need a 10mm.
  20. Then pull the throttle back and unhook your cable and pull it out.
  21. Now its time to unhook the c101 plug. This is located next to the fuse box and it just untwist.
  22. Now you can get down in and unhook your hoses for your heater core. You will need a flat head for this also.
  23. Now you can unhook the vac hoses from the brake booster to the TB. These just slide out with a little wiggle.
  24. Now its time to unhook your fuel lines. First one up is the one on the FPR. Be careful when you do this so it doesnt get in your eyes.
  25. Now do the one on the fuel rail, be very carful on this on since it will have more pressure in it then the first one.
  26. Now unhook your plug and hose from your evap can. This is located under the throttle body.
  27. Now unhook the ground straps from the oil pan to the frame. You will need a 13mm for this.
  28. It may help to jack up the front end of the car slighly higher to make removing the engine easier.

April 8, 2013 mechanical, status

If you own an e30 with an old fuel pump then I recommend replacing it even if it isn’t yet making death-rattle noises: the difference will be so obvious you’ll swear your e30 has more horsepower. This is a 20 minute job.

I got my pump and sender from the Pick n’ Pull for $70. Normally I would not have installed used parts in this application but I found a remarkable specimen and scooped it. If you have the means I suggest buying new for reliability and because there are so many after-market pumps available that are excellent and cheap especially if you have an engine with a higher than average LPH (litres per hour) requirement.


In my photo above you can see the new pump and sender have nice white plastic bits while my old parts are all brown. This isn’t aging it indicates a material update seen in newer fuel pumps. Expect to spend $250-280 for a new pump and sender, less if you retrofit a non-OEM pump.


The before (top) and after (bottom).

This job is dead simple and well documented. This thread on r3vlimited has some insights into noises and rusty fuel tanks. I won’t duplicate the step by step but I will share my notes on the procedure:

  • was happy to find foam seal still in place, though incorrectly installed
  • was not happy to find 1/8″ of dust covering everything
  • one of the nuts that hold the sender to the pump was missing: someone was in here before me apparently
  • cleaned up the dust as best i could, next time i’ll bring a brush and vacuum
  • stuffed paper towels all around the hoses
  • disconnected plugs and fuel hose (came off easily, no need to mangle the hose)
  • tried to block the hose with a sharpie but it was too big – a bic pen would work better
  • removed sender and put it in a bucket
  • could have used a hammer and screwdriver but just used muscle to spin & remove pump
  • pump locks onto the gas tank simular to the child-proof cap on medicine bottle
  • discovered the filter sock had fallen off and was in the tank
  • car has probably been guzzling all manner of dirt and gunk for years
  • based on that suspect fuel filter (1 year old) is gunked up and will need to be replaced next
  • went to home depot and bought a little claw to get the filter sock out of the tank
  • proceeded with new (to me) parts, clean up, etc.
  • car ran super rough initially probably due to air in the fuel line
  • eventually cleared up: car feels stronger, smoother acceleration
  • fuel guage still reading incorrect, may need to replace 2nd fuel level sender
  • filled up tank to try to dislodge sender float, will see how guage changes as i drive it
  • whole car reeks of gas, as do i.

Update (Monday 2012-01-28):

My e30 is messed up, stuttering and lacking power. Though it ran strong for an afternoon my “exceptional specimen” didn’t have much life left. Here’s how I’ve determined that the pump fuel supply is the problem: When the car stutters during acceleration, check the tachometer and fuel economy guages. If the RPMs drop that usually indicates a lack of spark. If the fuel economy drops that indicates the engine is starving for fuel.


My car is doing the latter, puttering at between 5 and 0 MPG in every gear and whenever the throttle is open. Tomorrow I’ll get up early and try hopefully swap in my old pump.

Update (Tuesday 2012-01-29):

The old pump improved drivability but I can tell it’s a short term fix because my old pump is making noise sometimes and the MPG frequently and nearly bottoms out just driving normally. This could be a combination of factors (fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors) but I suspect the pump.

This time it only took me 15 minutes to swap pumps but I’ll be doing it again soon so maybe I can do it even faster next time. There are several aftermarket pumps available but I decided on an OEM pump from TurnerMotorsport (they have the best price).

The bodger retrofit is to buy a pump and kit and rig it into the pump armature. The most common pump for that applicaiton is the Walbro 255 GSS-340 (DIY Retrofit Instructions). Cars with higher displacement engines or turbos sometimes put in a pump with greater LPH (litres per hour) such as the  Deatschwerks 300 LPH but that’s not necessary for a stock engine, even an s52 let alone an m20.

I’m a sucker for OEM.

Update (Sunday 2012-02-03):

I’m still convinced I have a fuel issue but my mechanic drove the car and says it has the tell-tale signs of a spark issue. I replaced the plugs in the 4 troublesome cylinders (which were actually o.k), replaced a cracked HT wire and swapped in the new distributor cap and rotor from my trunk kit for good measure: problem persists. If my mechanic is correct then the next item to inspect is the ignition coil.

Update (Tueday 2012-02-05):

My new OEM fuel pump arrived last night and I installed it in the dark. Works great and I can definitely feel that the car has new energy. Afterwards I drove it around the block with the pump exposed and the seat cushion off and it was crazy how loud the pump is. However my surging and powerloss issues prevail and I am going to replace the ignition coil to try to remedy that. As I’ve read, the coil can fail completely but it can also fail slowly causing exactly the symptoms I’m experiencing.

One last thing, It’s worth noting that every time I’ve done this there has been very little fuel in the hose coming off the pump, but this time there was much, much more fuel. It’s a good idea to remove the fuel sender before disconnecting the hose so you have somewhere to drain all that fuel.

How to:

Fuel Pump Replacement 

Part Numbers:

Suction Device with Pre-Supply Pump (255 LPH) 16141179415
O-Ring 16111744369
Sending Unit Assembly 16141152266 

Service Diagram (via RealOEM)

BMW e30: Fuel Pump Replacement

January 26, 2013 mechanical, repairs

I am by no means an expert so take this advice only at your own risk – some of this information may even be wrong. I’m just someone who bought an e30 without really knowing what I was doing and learned from the experience. The saying “buyer beware” is never more true than when shopping for a car. There are a couple of good guides already written that cover most of the mechanical stuff, so I’ll try to give you some tips that are not already covered elsewehere.

The best guide is this thread:

Above and left to right: early model e30, late model e30 and e30 M3.

Years & Models

1989 or later 325i or better yet 325is. These are the most modern e30s and offer the greatest opportunity for modification. Since parts from late model e30s and m3s can be installed on early model cars you should always check the VIN to find out the production information of any specific car. Read the Wikipedia entry for more information on how the e30 has changed over the course of it’s production.

  • Early Model e30s (1982-1985): Most recognizable by metal front and rear bumpers.
  • Late Model e30s (1986-1992): Bumpers have been updated to plastic and fog lights and air dam are integrated into the front valance. The engines are typically higher HP and the interior is slightly refined over early models.
  • e30 M3: Distinctinve side skirts, fenders and rear spoiler are easy to spot. Of course, the real difference between an e30 M3 and any other stock e30 is mechanical: the M3 has suspension and motor ugprades throughout.


Sub 200,000 miles is desirable, after that it doesn’t matter the m20 engine can go 400,000+ as long as maintenance is followed. Mileage isn’t really a factor in reliability or value unless it’s less than 100,000 or more than 300,000. Maintenance is more important than mileage.

Where To Find e30s

Try to find a car from an enthusiast: Check r3vlimited and bimmerforums.You may pay more but will get a well cared for car for less than the previous owner put into it. These guys often put $15K into a car and sell it for $8K. If you buy fom Craigslist try to find a one owner car. They are usually better cared for.

Title & Smog

Do not buy a car with a salvage title. Not worth the hassle and they are hard to resell.

Do not buy a car that hasn’t passed smog. You can spend a lot trying to get it smogged and it is illegal to sell a car without a smog certificate in California. Also, without a cat and OEM air box the car will not pass smog. Many performance mods will cause a car to fail smog automatically (visual inspection).


Arrange for a pre purchase inspection at a shop of YOUR choice. As I learned the hard way there is too much at stake and you can’t trust the seller to take the car to an unbiased shop. You’ll have to pay for the PPI, shouldn’t cost more than $130 but can save you much more if the car needs $3k work just to be roadworthy

Taking It Home

Plan to have the car towed home or to a shop for a once-over or for critical repairs after you buy it, unless you bought the car nearby. You don’t want to have the timing belt break and ruin the engine, or some other catastrophe.

Prices (by Category)

  • Neglected worth $1000 or less

    My car started out in this range, but I didn’t realize it and paid too much. Cars in this category have not had basic maintenance, wear and tear parts haven’t been replaced (bushings, suspension, radiator, belts, water pump). Some have only cosmetic work put into them and can be hard to identify as truly neglected because they may have after market rims, cone air filters, HID headlights or other superficial enhancements. Cosmetic things are cheap, easy and fun so don’t pay for someone else’s decorations. Beware of body kits. They can be poorly installed or be falling off and the community tends to frown on them. If you buy a neglected car have it towed to your garage, do not plan to drive it home.

  • OEM worth $1600-$3000 (maybe as high as $4500 depending on market)

    I refer to an OEM car as one that doesn’t have any (or many) aftermarket parts and is generally an e30 the way BMW built it. A car in this range should have had all the basic maintenance performed recently. Probably has stock rims (basketweaves or bottlecaps), there may be some interior wear and tear (see interior below) but generally the car should be mechanically sound and in good condition. Car should have an un-cracked dash, new timing belt, new water pump, maybe a new radiator, recent oil change, low mileage brakes and tires to fetch the upper end of this scale. Bilstein shocks and Eibach springs are a plus but remember suspension goes bad eventually and the owner would have to replace those just to keep the car drivable. Bilstein shocks are not an upgrade for e30s (so I’ve been told): that combo just reproduces the feel of OEM shocks. Engine may be a little dirty. The only people who clean engines are OCD or do their own repairs and this car was probably serviced at an indy shop or BMW dealership. Expect torn seats, some missing trim pieces, paint scratches or dents. Also plan on $1K or $2K repairs. Less if DIY.

    Note: Beware of neglected cars sneaking into this category because the market for e30s is lucrative. Beware of people who have neglected cars with a few cosmetic upgrades trying to sneak into the OEM or Modified / Clean price range.

  • Modified / Clean worth $4500-$8000

    Keep in mind that a good condition daily driver e36 is about $4500 – an e30 fetching the same price needs to compare to that newer e36 to qualify. Cars in this range are either “clean” (very well preserved OEM cars, over and above what you would see in the OEM category) or “modified”. A modified car can have many cosmetic blemishes but have so many upgrades that the price is justified. Modifications are hard to value but they can include (in order of how common they are): air intake / air meter (afm, maf) upgrades for increased HP, ECU (computer) chip upgrades for HP, suspension (GC or other coil overs), LSD upgrade (watch it, this sometimes does nothing to improve the car’s acceleration unless other mods are done. BMW usually gets the LSD right when they make the car), engine swap (usually swapped cars start at  $7.5K though may not add much HP), fuel injector upgrades, stroke mods, bore mods. Some people with clean cars want the high end of this price range but that’s a losing proposition for you, the buyer. Save your money and find the same car with mods that justify the price. An engine swap offers the greatest HP value of any mod, benefits of other mods are debatable and complicate getting your car smogged.

  • M3 Territory worth $10K+

    Anyone asking more than $10K is in M3 territory. I’m not sure how to price M3s but I’ve seen them for sale for as little as $10K (but in need of work, usually body work). The only non-M3 cars that should be in this category are modified AND clean cars. They should have swapped engines, pristine interiors, suspension upgrades, aftermarket rims and tires and excellent paint jobs. All the wear and tear parts should have been replaced recently. Engine and entire car interior and exterior should be clean and generally blemish free.


Clean vs. dirty engine bay. Neither proves anything about the mechanical state of the engine.


  • Get To Know e30s

    This is probably the VERY best tip I can offer: If you’re not familiar with e30s except as a passenger you should go to the Pick N Pull or other auto dismantlers and get to know the cars as intimately as possible – pretend these are cars for sale and evaluate the worthiness of them. How is the engine, suspension, radiator, interior, etc.? Look for things that are missing, broken or in poor condition: lots of e30s for sale are missing bits but you won’t know that if you’ve never seen an e30 with that part before. Wear gloves, touch things – hell, take things apart, the Pick n Pull doesn’t care (and see mechanical below)! For extra credit read the first 2-3 chapters of the e30 Bentley Service Manual (you can find it as a PDF if you are diligent).

  • Recent Work

    Owner should produce receipts for recent repairs. Timing belt and water pump need to be changed every 60K miles. If the owner hasn’t done at least this then walk away (or offer very, very low): the car is neglected.

  • Easy Fixes

    Beware of issues dismissed as being “easy fixes”. Some people bring these up as a smokescreen for more serious problems. “Runs great, all it needs it a water pump. Easy fix.” Ask yourself, if it was so easy then wouldn’t the previous owner have fixed it? What else didn’t he fix that’s going to cost you?

  • Odometer, Instrument Cluster:

    Can be fixed if it’s not working but is not worth the hassle of unknown / incorrect mileage. I would avoid. When you start the car do ALL the indicators light up? People sometimes disconnect lights so they don’t have to look at them, or to pass smog / mechanical inspeciton and therefore problems go unchecked. Cluster lights are easy to replace but can hide other problems if left burned out or removed.

  • Engine Off

    How clean is the engine? A clean engine usually but not always indicates good maintenance. Are any hoses cracked or leaking? Those will need to be replaced, plan $12-$24 for each hose, $100 more if you’re hiring a shop. With the car off, but warmed up, check the dipstick. Is oil level low? Leaks, poor maintenance. Is it milky or creamy? Coolant leak, show stopper. Check the coolant reservoir. Any oil in it? Head gasket leak, another show stopper. Look under the car with the engine off. Any leaks, oil droplets forming? Oil accumulation? Are the rubber axle boots torn or cracked? Use a flashlight here. Axles are $100 each used but installation can be trouble. Rebuilding them is cheap but labor intensive and messy. Visually inspecting the spark plugs will tell you so much about an engine but the seller may not allow you to do that (or may have replaced them just before putting the car up for sale) so get a PPI and make sure that’s part of the inspection. Expect that anything leaking would need to be replaced. Check the rear differential, steering rack, front oil cooler, front radiator, oil pan. Bank on average of $250 per part (used price, double for new) plus the same in labor.

  • Starting The Car

    Car should idle around 750 RPM, though 900 RPM is acceptable. Lower idling indicates air or vacuum leaks but may not manifest itself unless the engine is dead cold. May be cheap, may be expensive / elusive to fix.

  • Driving The Car

    Well covered in other resources.


  • Rust

    No California car should have rust. If it does then don’t buy it. Rust is well covered in the link at the top of this guide.

  • Color

    Avoid custom paint jobs, unusual colours (like green or blue) — unless the car is absolutely immaculate and requires no body work whatsoever. Replacement body parts will require painting and if it was a custom job the car may have overspray or fitment issues from poor re-assembly. If you have an apline white e30 and need a new fender you can go to the junkers and get one for $100, but if it’s alpine green you will have a very hard time finding a donor car that color. Only go for an usual color if it’s a BMW original paint job and immaculate. Or you absolutely love it. The community tends to frown on non-BMW colors. People notice but maybe you don’t care. My car is not a BMW color but it gets loads of compliments so there is always an exception. However, my car’s custom paint has been a load of trouble for the exact reasons I mention above.

  • Body

    Scratches and chips can be touched up but expect anything else to cost $1500 minimum to fix, unless you can replace the part entirely (see previous note about colours.) Almost all exterior trim can be found cheap. Brand new kidneys are $40, light grills are $130 new / euro style or $15 from the Pick n Pull. Door bumper rails are more rare / expensive unless you get them from the Pick n Pull (but it may take a while to collect a complete set of the same quality).

  • Lights

    Make sure all the lights work, if any lights have been “smoked” consider that they may be illegal in your area and need to be replaced. Or the quality of the painting might simply suck. Tail lights run $50-200 for a pair depending on quality, cracks. See next section on “interior” for the reason why I think lights are important.


Note: If you don’t care about the car’s interior then you can ignore this section. However, the interior says a lot about how a car was cared for: If the owner didn’t bother to replace a $2 light bulb they probably didn’t do any of the major repairs either.

  • Dash

    Probably the single most important interior item when evaluating a car. If it’s cracked you should consider that a show stopper if you care about the interior at all. If it has velcro adhesives all over it then that can be removed using peanut butter and Goo Gone (clean very thoroughly afterwards and do not let it get on the underside of the dash or into cracks). You can buy a near-mint dash for $150 but it takes two people 8 hours to swap. It is very, very difficult – BMW installs the dash before installing the front windshield and they never intended it to be replaced otherwise. I’ve done it. I would not do it again, it is no small task.

  • Carpet

    Really bad carpet (where not covered by mats) is another show stopper. It can’t be replaced without removing the dash. You may be able to clean it depending what is on it.

  • Sunroof

    Replacing any of the sunroof parts is brutally hard, so avoid leaking or broken sunroofs.

    Seat Belts

    Working front buckles (especially front driver and passenger) are hard to find at the junkers so check them before buying, not a show stopper but something you’ll have to fix. Could be $170 new, $50 used. Rear buckles are $15 used.

  • Console

    The shifter console is hard to find in good condition, though easier for the coupe than sedan. Expect to spend $80-100 for a good condition shifter console. Not a show stopper, just consider replacement cost. Used ash trays in good condition are $25 each, though can be replaced entirely with VDO guages or a custom cup holder. A brand new OEM e-brake console is only $35 but isn’t covered in exactly the same vinyl as the original.

  • Seats

    Decent comfort seats run $50-$400, so torn seats are not an issue. passenger seats are more common than driver seats.

  • Windows, Door & Locks

    Make sure door handles and windows work, those are difficult items to replace. Problems with those circuits can be troublesome to diagnose.

  • Trim & Switches

    Can be found cheap, not an issue. Switches are $9 and trim is $6 / foot but may be hard to find mint.

  • November 13, 2012 guide

    Maybe it’s a little ricer but I really like ambient footwell lighting so I added it to my e30. Maybe it’s because my e39 touring has quite a bit of ambient lighitng in the cabin and I’ve just become partial to it. I’ll post some supplementary photos but here’s the summary:


    • ordered 2 red LEDs from for $2.00 each
    • cut off the socket for the light that’s normally attached to the cigarette lighter
    • added quick disconnects to the wires
    • stripped and wrapped together the 2 + and 2 – wires of the LEDs
    • added quick disconnects
    • connected everything together and tested it
    • removed my shifter console
    • placed the LEDs about where I wanted them in the footwells
    • put the shifter console, etc. back
    • zip tied the LEDs to the sides of the console becuase there’s no where else to put them (on the driver’s side at least)

    The effect is successful, but I’d like to find a better way of mounting the LEDs, without using adhesive. I’m also thinking about adding LEDs underneath the seats or maybe installing courtesy lights to the underside of the doors that would be tied into the cabin light circuit.

    November 4, 2012 interior