I compiled the following list of cooling system temperatures to establish a baseline for monitoring temperature issues and I’ve posted it here in case it’s useful to anyone else. I’m assuming that my car is running at a “normal” temperature and I’m not accounting for ambient air temperature.

IMG_0118

In my experience there is no change in readings when switching from OEM to the Mishimoto radiator but the only way to state that confidently would be to account for ambient temperature and engine load.

Thermostat housing temperature varied +/-10˚C over my tests and should not be considered accurate.

65˚C – Thermostat Housing +/-10˚C
80˚C – Top Radiator Hose
73˚C – Water Pump to Thermostat Housing Hose
75˚C – Bottom Radiator Hose

BMW e30 thermostat housing stat temperature
BMW e30 top radiator hose temperature
IMG_0123
BMW e30 lower radiator hose temperature

October 16, 2014 mechanical, Uncategorized

A common cause of a jumpy and inaccurate temperature gauge needle is a loose ground or a short circuit in the instrument cluster. However, because the e30 has a real temperature sender that isn’t buffered or averaged out it’s prone to some erratic movement as warmer or colder coolant passes through the thermostat housing.

The jumpy needle can indicate a loose ground in the cluster, a fault in the wiring harness or might even indicate a cooling issue such a failing head gasket. I swapped in a performance radiator because I wanted to ensure maximum cooling but to solve the jumpy needle I needed to check the other possibilities.

bmws e30 temperature gauge normal

Above: Generally considered ‘normal’ e30 running temperature.

When troubleshooting anything I always start with the easiest, simplest solution just in case it proves correct. In this case that’s the ground on the temperature VDO gauge. I decided to check it, and do a few other cosmetic things on the cluster while I was in there:

  • Find and tighten the ground nut on for the temperature gauge.
  • Replace the missing Anti-Lock bulb to help further diagnose my non-functioning ABS.
  • Replace the plastic gauge rings the PO added.
  • Touch up the red needles the PO painted.

Temperature Needle Ground Nut


After removing the cluster I used a 7mm screwdriver socket bit that I got with a euro toolkit to tighten the nut. It’s not a common tool so you may have to buy a thin wall socket just for this job. On my cluster it appears that someone already tightened the fuel gauge nut but used some pliers which damaged the plastic around the nut. The PO is always the worst person.

BMW e30 rear of cluster showing temperature gauge nut to tighten

Above: The brass temp gauge ground nut is next to the blue plug.

I used light pressure to tighten the nut until it felt about as tight as the fuel gauge nut. The cluster is mostly plastic so over tightening would be a terrible thing. I’m happy to report that it looks like this has fixed my jumpy temperature gauge entirely.

Anti-Lock Bulb


Replacing the bulb is straight forward. Now I need to diagnose my non-functioning ABS which is causing the bulb to light. In the above picture the anti-lock bulb socket is just a plastic hole. The bulb is actually attached to the harness. More on that in another blog entry.

Gauge Rings and Needles


The previous owner put ABS plastic rings around the instrument gauges and even though they are kind of ricey I admit that I’ve grown fond of them. I ordered two sets of real metal rings from Bavarian Restoration (I ordered mine via R3vlimited): polished aluminum and brushed metal. The brushed metal appeared to bright to me so I opted for the polished aluminum.

Bavarian Restoration chrome and matte cluster rings on BMW e30 instrument cluster

Above: Polished vs matte cluster rings.

Fitment of the Bavarian Restoration rings was excellent and required only firm, even pressure to snap into the cluster. While I had the cluster I also used some red Sharpie to touch up the PO’s sloppy paint job on the gauge needles.

Using sharpie to paint e30 gauge needles red

October 8, 2014 cosmetic

All-aluminum radiators are a popular choice for race applications and cars with modified engines. My daily driver with stock m20 motor fits neither category but I’ve been diagnosing the common jumpy temp gauge and wanted to make sure my radiator is flowing freely and providing maximum cooling. Also, the super clean appearance of aluminum radiators appeals to my sense of aesthetics so I basically convinced myself to do this upgrade.

My criteria for the replacement radiator was improved cooling and OEM fitment. I set on the Mishimoto e30 / e36 radiator after recommendations from friends and finding only positive reviews in online BMW forums. Mishimoto offers a lifetime warranty which is comforting.

e30 Mishimoto radiator in box

However, my decision shouldn’t be taken as endorsement and I haven’t run this radiator long enough to provide a real product review. After I installed this my close friend and local e30 expert Eric Berger told me that he knows several people who have had these radiators fail. In some cases the failure resulted in motor damage: it’s “buyer beware” as always. For the record Eric recommends Behr.

Because of Eric’s emphatic warning I’m going to monitor this radiator very closely especially as it approaches the first year of service. I did some further internet searches and found few reports of failures with the Mishimoto products. Mostly I found complaints about fitment. The few cases I found of failure were related to running straight water (no coolant) for long periods of time and in some cases not even using distilled water. Since coolant lubricates the moving parts of the cooling system and iron in water reacts with aluminum I blame careless owners for those failures I read about. I’m not sure what the issues were with the other local guys who had failures.

IMG_9789

Build Quality and Fitment


I found the quality of the Mishimoto radiator to be good and I would rate it a 9/10. It loses points for two reasons. Firstly, some of the fins were bent and a couple near the top were sheared off out of the box. Radiators are delicate but I’d expect it to be perfect on arrival. There’s a tool that can fix bent fins so I guess I’ll buy one.

Secondly I found fitment to be imperfect. One of the support posts was angled slightly outward. From post edge to post edge the radiator should be 26″ across but because of this defect my Mishimoto radiator was 26.15″ across. The solution was to cut down one of the rubber radiator mounts so that it would still seat to the radiator support. I don’t like this solution as it looks sloppy and failure due to a weakened mount is a concern.

Not necessarily a show stopper but there’s no fan shroud for a mechanical m20 fan that fits on the Mishimoto. I mean, you can throw one on but there’s no where to zip tie or clip it onto the rad. I’m still researching that.

mishimoto e30 radiator mounts wrong fitment

Above: This post for the radiator mounts is angled incorrectly which caused improper fitment.

mishimoto e30 radiator fitment adjusting mounts with knife

Above: Cutting the passenger side rubber radiator mount for fitment.

Installation Notes


  • Installation was easy. It took 30 minutes to remove the hood and old radiator and another 45 minutes to install and reconnect the new radiator including the time it took to solve the problem with the radiator mounts. From start to finish including bleeding it took me 3 hours. I ran into no problems because my hoses are all fresh and flexible. Older hoses may cause more problems.
  • Don’t forget to buy high temp teflon tape for your fan switch. The radiator ships with an aluminum delete plug for the switch port.
  • The Mishimoto drains directly from the bottom of the rad. Draining will splash coolant off the radiator support and make a big mess. Some kind of petcock with a 12mm x 1.5 would help but there’s not much room to fit it.

Mishimoto radiator installed in my late model 1989 BMW 325i e30
Mishimoto radiator installed in my late model 1989 BMW 325i e30

Above: Mishimoto radiator installed in my 1989 BMW e30.

October 5, 2014 mechanical, repairs

I bought a Ireland Engineering Strut Tower Brace several months ago (over a year?) and put off installing it because I wasn’t entirely sure it would fit. A test fitting indicated it might not fit without jacking up part or all of the car to move the strut towers further apart. But with last month’s steering rack swap it seemed like a good time to put the bar on and have an alignment done.

Install was easy and required only minimal wiggling with the car on the ground but there were two problems: The brace was touching the intake manifold. And when I took the brace off there was a scuff mark to prove it. Also the cruise control bowden cable was crushed under the bar. I was mostly concerned about the the contact between the bar and manifold so I emailed Ireland Engineering and the response was basically

“It is just kind of parr for the course, but you can bend the bar slightly there (or a decent wack with a hammer [after heating up the bar to a good couple hundred degree’s right there as to keep the p.c. from cracking]).”

1989 BMW e30 with IE Ireland Engineering Strut Tower Bar or Brace Installed
IMG_9135
IE Ireland Engineering Strut Tower Bar or Brace rubbing intake manifold
IMG_9148

And this is where I’ll review the product:

  • Once installed the product performs it’s intended function, though I should drill another hole in the strut towers and utilize the 3rd bolt hole to maximize stability.
  • The bar arrived with numerous scratches in the powder coating, some of which were covered up with permanent marker. This should have been a warning sign that build quality is low.
  • The round cut out on each brace end does not match the round extrusion on top of the strut tower. If it was just a little wider it would fit better, instead I had to rely on the strut bolts to pull the bar over that lip.
  • And as mentioned above, the bar will not clear a stock m20 intake manifold. I didn’t buy this bar expecting to mod it myself.
  • If you’re looking for a bar that should fit and have better build quality then I will pass on the recommendation I received, which is the UUC Strutbarbarian. This bar has a bracket to reroute cruise control which shows some thoughtful design. Though I have heard horror stories about UUC build quality (specifically brand new parts breaking during track events) but I believe that the strut bar is a simple enough thing that it can be trusted not to break.

    Hindsight is always 20/20. I got my tools and set about modding the bar. I’m not experienced with fabrication but after only a couple of hits I realized that the powder coating was not going to stay on the bar and I’d have to touch up with regular paint. Thankfully this part isn’t visible because it’s between the bar and the intake manifold.

    Tools for modifying IE Ireland Engineering e30 strut tower brace
    cracked powder coating on strut tower brace
    IMG_9463

    The next project related to this will be sorting out the cruise control cable.

September 29, 2014 mechanical

At my two most recent BMW CCA autocross events the typical comment from my instructors (i’m still a ‘novice’) has been “wow, you’re pretty smooth even though you have to shuffle steer.” It became clear that the stock 4-turn e30 steering rack was slowing me down and needed to be swapped out.


At the outset I thought this project would take a day, maybe two at the most. It actually took 3 weekends to complete because of missing parts and tools. I also wasted a lot of time researching various steps and confirming that I was doing the right thing. Hopefully my experience will help you with your own steering rack swap. I learned some valuable lessons about this kind of work:

  1. Test fit everything “on the ground” before the day of install. This includes checking bolt fitment in new parts and final assembly. Don’t assume all parts were shipped.
  2. Check all available photos and diagrams for parts and examples of how final install should look before the day of install.

I started my research by asking for some opinions which fell into two categories:

  1. The e36 z3 rack is too twitchy, go with a 95 e36 M3 rack with a lock to lock of 3.0 turns.
  2. You can handle it, go for the e36 z3 rack with a lock to lock of 2.7 turns.

e30 rack vs z3 rack

Above: Comparison of Racks. (Photo Source)

I heard so much praise for the z3 rack, like “best mod ever for an e30″, that I decided to pursue it. Next I started researching the method: most of my web searches turned up the same DIY (posted on R3vlimited) time and again so I decided to follow it. Going with the DIY seemed like the only option but was my first and most costly, time consuming mistake.

I want to put a very fine point on this: If you are planning to do an e30 steering rack to e36 m3 or e36 z3 steering rack swap you should buy a complete kit. There may be other retailers but the kit used by people I know is available from Zionsville Autosport. The pros to buying the complete kit is substantial savings over buying the component parts and the kit is complete requiring no retrofitting or fabrication to install unlike the DIY procedure. I wasted a lot of time blocked because of missing tools, fiddling with retrofits and installing things incorrectly. Save yourself the trouble and buy the kit.

But I didn’t know about the complete kits when I started so I set about ordering the parts I’d need. Web searching led me to The Rack Doctor who I ordered from because I felt most confident that I was getting the rack I wanted. On a scale of 1-5 I’d say my experience was a 3.5.

Pros:


  • Rack was clean, painted
  • They called to confirm that I wanted e36 tie rod arms vs. e30 (there is a difference)
  • New copper crush washers were included but just for the rack, not the pump
  • Shipping was quick

Cons:


  • Paint chipped horribly during install especially on some of the plastic hoses
  • Some important nuts and lock clamps for tie rods were not included which delayed install
  • High core charge not refundable except for identical core return

The DIY I referenced listed out the following parts:

DIY Parts List (DO NOT ORDER FROM THIS LIST):


2x 7/16 Bolt 2 Inches Long
2x Bolt M10x50 26111226737
2x Self Locking Nuts 07129964672
4x Copper Seals 14×20 32411093596
4x Copper Seals 16×22 32411093597
4x Self Locking Nuts 07129922716
1x Power Steering Reservoir 32411097164
1x High Pres. PS Hose 32411141953
1x Spacer 72118119268
2x Spacer 72111847480
2x Nut 721119779250
2x LP PS Return Hoses
1x Bottle of ATF

Some of these parts are NLA or the author just didn’t list part numbers. I have crossed out the list entirely because I don’t think you should reference it. Here’s my recommended parts list:

My Updated Parts List:


4x Copper Seals 14×20 32411093596
4x Copper Seals 16×22 32411093597
1x Power Steering Reservoir 32411097164
1x High Pres. PS Hose 32411141953
1x LP PS Return Hose 32411135936
1x LP PS Return Hose 32411133401
1x e30 to e36 Steering Knuckle Kit (either RPKIT or the kit from here)
1x *e36 Left Ball Joint 32111139313
1x *e36 Right Ball Joint 32111139314
2x *Clamp Ring 32111136179
2x *Nuts 32111136494
1x Bottle ATF Fluid

*Necessary only if you get the e36 ball joints and these parts are not included. e30 tie rods require a different locking nut and may be reused from your old rack. Probably.

BMW e36 tie rod clamp ring parts
BMW e36 tie rod clamp ring parts

Above: Clamp rings and chunky nuts required but not mentioned in the DIY.

IMG_8733

Above: The tiny nut shipped with the e36 z3 rack that is not suitable for this swap.

Additional Tools:


Two 15mm wrenches (for the knuckle)
8mm and 6mm extended hex bits (for installing the knuckle kit around the parts of the knuckle – you’ll see!)
Tie Rod Puller
Bottle Jack (for flattening the rack tabs)
C-Clamps (for depressing brake cylinders)

A note about tie rod pullers: There are two styles. The most common style you’ll find at your local auto supply store features a single U shaped clamp with a bolt through the center. This bolt has a pointed tip that seats in the top of the ball joint bolt. The bolt must have a divot in the top for this tip to seat in otherwise it will not work, and it should be noted that the e36 arms do NOT have this divot. Also note that in order to use the U shaped puller you will need to take off the rotors and loosen the dust shield. It’s really loud when the bolt finally breaks loose but a little less violent than banging on it with a hammer or a pickle fork. The other kind of puller looks like a metal clothes pin and a bolt is used to close the jaws of the pin, again pushing the ball joint bolt out. This tool works by pressing down on the ball joint bolt with a flat surface and therefore works on bolts that do NOT have a divot in the top. Like e36 tie rods and ball joints. So if you have the choice get the clothes pin kind of tool since it’s more versatile.

BMW e30 e36 Two kinds of tie rod pullers

Above: Two different styles of tie rod end pullers.

BMW e30 e36 Tie rod puller in use how to

Above: The clothes pin style of tie rod puller in use.

Notes and Addendum to the DIY:


  1. Disconnecting the ball joints and tie rods was impossible for me without using a puller. A hammer and block of wood only resulted in destroying the wood. Tie rod removal also required the removal of the brake calipers and loosening the dust plate to make enough room for the puller.
  2. BMW e30 tie rod end arm puller removal

    Above: The U style puller. Notice how much room it requires next to the dust shield.
  3. I used zip ties and plastic bags to keep the hoses from dripping after disconnecting them. Keep your work space clean.
  4. Take photos of where the old hoses run so you can run the new hoses along the same pathway.
  5. Removing (and installing) hoses on the rack need to be done in order: there is not room to remove the upper banjo bolt while the lower bolt is in place.
  6. The DIY called for bending the rack tabs on the center cross member to make room to drop the rack. In retrospect lifting the motor or bending these tabs the very smallest amount required would be advisable. I spent 2 hours working the tabs back into place with a bottle jack and some folks posit that bending the tabs weakens them.
  7. Plan to soak the knuckle to rack spline in PB blaster over night. The knuckle to steering column spline slipped right off but I could not remove the knuckle from the steering rack and ended up sourcing a donor knuckle while waiting for the PB blaster to work. I finally got the knuckle off by standing on the old rack and pulling. I can deadlift 300 lb. so that says something about how seized up the splines may be. Also note that the bolt on the rack side of the knuckle must be completely removed as it passes through a slot in the spine that holds it on. You cannot remove the knuckle with the bolt merely loosened.
  8. If modifying your current knuckle i.e. not using a pre-fabricated knuckle then you need to remember that the kit or shortened spacer is used to make the knuckle shorter NOT longer. You will need to enlarge two of the holes on the knuckle to fit the bolts through. A 23/32 drill bit was the right size for me but you should use a bit gauge to measure your bolts.
  9. I needed to tap the knuckle onto the rack spline using a hammer. Actually a friend with more experience did it for me. This should not be necessary but if you simply can’t work the knuckle on by hand then be very sure that the splines are not binding and are lined up properly before gently tapping it onto the spline. Go slow, you’re not driving a nail.
  10. The rack and knuckle need to connect to the steering spline when both are centered (this is mentioned in the DIY). I used a protractor and made a measuring tool to count the number of degrees in a complete lock to lock rotation, dividing the total by 2 and then finding that middle point in the racks rotation. In my case middle was 510 degrees. This is very accurate and does not require the removal of the boots, etc. to measure the tie rod ends. I marked this middle point on the rack and spline using a white paint marker for reference during install but marked it on the side I couldn’t see: make your marks so they are visible when the spline is on your left.
  11. Using rubber bicycle inner tube to protect splines
    e30 rack swap how to center rack
    e30 rack swap how to center rack

    Above: Finding the center of the rack.
  12. Even after finding center I still had to disconnect the rack and knuckle and move it over a single spline tooth. If you put a peice of tape at dead center on your wheel and turn it all the way to the left and right you should see that the terminal position of each is the mirror image of the other. My first attempt found it to be 2″ off (about the amount of a single spline tooth).
  13. The DIY reads “if there is binding use your Dremel to grind the knuckle joint.” You should assume that the knuckle will bind and grind it down on your bench where you have maximum control NOT when it’s installed in the car like the DIY shows. I recommend using a cutting bit not a grinding bit as the amount of metal you need to remove is significant. I removed metal from the U but in hindsight grinding down the edges of the fork may have been tidier and resulted in less cutting.
  14. Dremel cutter grinder bit for shaving down steering knuckle in e30 z3 swap
    Dremel cutter grinder bit for shaving down steering knuckle in e30 z3 swap

    Above: The correct Dremel cutter bit used for shaving down the knuckle to prevent binding.
  15. The DIY calls for tapping the cross member tabs into place with a hammer. This is impossible as the tabs will bounce and absorb all the force of the hammer. Using vice grips mangled the tabs. I recommend using a bottle jack and wood blocks under the tabs to bend them into place but be careful not to lift the car by accident. Putting the rack and spacer on the tab while bending the tabs up will help make sure you don’t bend the tabs too far the other way.
  16. bmw e30 z3 rack install bending cross member tabs back into place

  17. If you use the hoses called for in the DIY you can bend the new high pressure hose into place using your hands, or a little heat and your gloved hands. Using a vice or bender should not be required. Only the pump side should require bending. Study my photos and try to match what I’ve done.
  18. BMW e30 steering rack swap high pressure hose bends
    BMW e30 steering rack swap high pressure hose bends
    BMW e30 steering rack swap high pressure hose bends

  19. The new hoses are a tight fit. The new high pressure hose will need to go over the motor mount arm. Just make sure there is a finger’s width between each hose as you tighten it down because rubbing hoses will eventually spring a leak. Two sets of hands can be helpful here.
  20. During bleeding of the steering rack do not press the brakes because you may over extend the brake piston. If you do this by accident you may be able to use a c-clamp to compress the piston back down. Otherwise a bleed and flush will be required.

BMW e30 e36 z3 rack swap tie rod arm bolt and clamp
1989 BMW e30 sedan blue on flat bed recovery vehicle

Above: Towing my e30 to Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas, CA for an alignment.

1989 BMW e30 alignment at Bavarian Motorsport

Above: My 1989 BMW e30 on the alignment rack at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas.

August 29, 2014 mechanical, repairs

I went to the BMW Club’s September Autocross event and while I was there I took a lap as a passenger in someone else’s car. When I got in and went to buckle up I found this strange attachment on the seatbelt and asked about it.

It was a CG Lock and after the driver showed me how to buckle up the benefit became immediately apparent: the CG Lock stops your lap belt from slackening or tightening. If it’s tight then you are firmly connected to the car and therefore more aware of what the car is doing.

I ordered one, installed it (it clamps on with only 2 small bolts) and tested it while driving around today: works great, feels good. We’ll see how it really performs at autocross tomorrow.

CG Lock in 1989 BMW e30 325i

CG Lock in 1989 BMW e30 325i

Update


The CG Lock was an excellent addition to my autocross set up and made me feel considerably more “connected”. However, by the end of the day the clamp that attaches the CG Lock to the belt buckle started becoming loose and the whole thing ended up in my glove box. I don’t feel comfortable using it for every day driving but I expect to use it again next time I autocross.

October 11, 2013 interior

BMW and M3 Leather Keyring Keychain

October 11, 2013 photos

I took the e30 to the BMW club’s Dyno Day hosted at Dietsch Werks to find out what kind of horsepower it gets now that it has a refreshed m20 engine. It was fun to hear and see all the different BMWs, get my car on the dyno and have some good food.

My car was the oldest to run the dyno that day but also the car with the least HP: 121.6. I’m not upset, in fact it puts an extra wide grin on my face when I put my foot down and out-accelerate newer, more powerful cars.

I’d never been to a dyno day before, and I’ve never seen cars spewing black junk from the exhaust pipes before: As I learned, this junk doesn’t accumulate if you hit the rev limiter frequently. Since the dyno day I try to get out on the highway and hit the red line at least three times a week. Since doing that I’ve noticed the car feels like it’s putting down more power at the wheels… and no more black junk.

I made a video of my 3 runs.

1989 BMW 325i e30 Dyno

Above: Dino results of 121.6 HP.

Dietsch Werks Lotus
Dietsch Werks Lotus

Above: Lots of Lotus’.

BMW M5

Above: This M5 was just visiting and didn’t get dyno tested.

BMW CCA GGC Dyno Day
Delorean

Above: Lots of cool cars in the parking lot, like this Delorean.

July 27, 2013 events

A month ago I replaced my BMW MTech I steering wheel with a Momo Mod 7 wheel that provides enough room between pedals and wheel to fit my legs when applying heel-toe. It came with a Momo horn button but I bought a BMW horn button from an Amazon retailer for $20. Unfortunately the colour of the emblem is not even the correct shade of blue.

I decided to use the stock Momo button until I could find the real deal. A search revealed that Momo did make horn buttons with emblems licensed by BMW at some time in the past but I couldn’t find one for sale. Searching BMW forums turned up only dead ends except for one thread on Bimmerforums that contained a lead.

I took a gamble and contacted a user by the name of “vapor”.

Vapor travels back and forth between the US and Japan every few weeks and works his connections overseas to get rare parts. Communication was sporadic: It took a week to hear back from him. He might be going to Japan with a small stop over in the US at which time he could mail the package. It wouldn’t be cheap. He’d contact me later.

Then nothing for 3 weeks until I got a message that the package was in the mail.

Real Momo BMW Emblem Horn Button with Reproduction Version

The authentic Momo BMW horn button differs from the reproduction item in a few notable ways:

  1. The real deal has “MOMO” embossed into the plastic on the back of the button.
  2. The bezel is matte plastic with a shiny black ring around the BMW emblem. No excessive fake chrome.
  3. The emblems has the right colour and is sealed in resin. There is not texture to the emblem.
  4. The real deal also has only one wire for connecting it to the horn circuit. The circuit is completed by grounding out via the horn ring.
  5. Back of Momo BMW Horn Button
    IMG_8776

    My Mod 7 steering wheel is not “period correct” for an e30 but it’s a cheap and functional wheel. The addition of the BMW horn button makes it seem to belong a little more.

    BMW e30 with Momo Mod 7 Steering Wheel and BMW Momo Horn Button

June 2, 2013 cosmetic

After 20 years of being in the engine bay of an e30 any kind of plastic starts to… look like a cross between dried snot and old cheese. The coolant reservoir suffers the worst because without regular flushes the contents turn slimy and seep into the plastic.

Of course this in no way impedes functionality so replacement ranks low on the priority list. I’ve read that some (ABS) plastic can be bleached in peroxide and regain some of it’s original appearance but that can take weeks and produce marginal results. In most cases DIYers choose paint over replacement.

I’ve collected the following example photos of painted engine bay plastics for example:

My e30’s own coolant tank was especially pathetic. In addition to being cat-vomit brown it had picked up some overspray from the PO’s paint job and accumulated a thick layer of sludge in the bottom. The washer fluid tank suffered the same overspray but I painted that blue which I think really sets off well against the rest of the engine bay. I decided not to paint the coolant reservoir because I don’t have a space to paint in right now and it’s impossible to read the coolant level once painted.

During my engine swap I needed to fill out an order for some small parts and decided I’d add the tank to the order. I didn’t take any photos during the install but it was pretty straight forward and I think the results are nice.

IMG_7061

1989 BMW e30 325i Clean Engine Bay and new Coolant Reservoir

e30 Coolant Reservoir

Coolant Reservoir Replacement


  1. Disconnect the Air Flow Meter and remove it along with the air box that holds the air filter.
  2. Put some cardboard and catch pan under the radiator and remove the lower drain plug.
  3. As coolant drains remove the cap from the overflow reservoir.
  4. Disconnect and remove the coolant level sensor by loosening the large black nut that connects it to the reservoir.
  5. Remove the coolant return hose from the bottom of the reservoir and immediately move it over the catch pan to drain.
  6. Cut off the radiator to overflow reservoir hose very close to the hose clamp, or cut the hose clamp off.
  7. Cut off reservoir overflow hose that runs to a hole in fender.
  8. Remove the old reservoir by pulling up to release it from the clip holding it to the frame.
  9. Put in the new tank, reconnect the hoses.
  10. Use either a very small worm-gear hose clamp or use the OEM “Oetiker Clamp” and end nippers (in lieu of the proper pliers) to connect the high-pressure radiator overflow to overflow reservoir hose.
  11. Refill the system with coolant and bleed it of any trapped air. This is well covered elsewhere in more or less detail.
  12. bmw e30 coolant reservoir

    Parts List


    Radiator Expansion Tank 17111712641
    Hose Clamp 32411712735
    Oetiker Clamps and Pliers on Amazon

May 26, 2013 cosmetic, mechanical

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